What is the treatment for a deep, persistent tan on my face?

Question

Hello doctor,

I am 18 years old, and my skin is not sensitive. Due to prolonged sun exposure, I have a very dark tan on my face and arms, even though I had been applying some sunscreen once in a while in the past.

I have been trying to remove the tan from my face for the last two to three months by using the Kojic Acid + Alpha Arbutin 2% Serum along with vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and Glycolic acid 7% toner routine. Some changes are visible; however, my tan is very stubborn.

I am keen on discussing whether it will be suitable to use Hydroquinone 2% along with Tretinoin 0.025% in order to fade the dark pigmentation.

Kindly help.

Answer 1

Hello,

Welcome to icliniq.com.

I can imagine how difficult and frustrating it may be for you to cope with an unrelenting tan, even though you have been using various serums and active agents on your skin for a few months now. You take good care of your skin and do not give up, and I appreciate it very much.

Based on what you have told me about the problem, I consider that you have persistent hyperpigmentation due to the sun.

Even if sunscreen was used occasionally in the past, inconsistent application or inadequate quantity can allow deep stimulation of melanocytes, which leads to prolonged pigmentation. The good news is that in most young individuals, especially at 18 years of age, this pigmentation is usually superficial and reversible with the right structured approach.

Your current routine includes:

Kojic acid.
Alpha arbutin.
Vitamin C (L ascorbic acid).
7% Glycolic acid.

Your partial improvement indicates that your pigmentation will respond, but it will do so slowly. However, too much actives used at one time can result in plateauing or irritation. These factors keep your pigmentation active.

As for your combination of Hydroquinone 2% with Tretinoin 0.025%, it may prove useful in cases where tanning is resistant:

Hydroquinone acts on Tyrosinase (melanin production).
Tretinoin enhances cell turnover and improves the penetration of Hydroquinone.

In your case, you can go for a short course of a triple combination (Cligman regimen (Hydroquinone + Tretinoin + mild steroid)), but only for the arms and not the face:

Use cautiously.
Limited duration not exceeding six to eight weeks.
Use on alternate nights on the arms for six to eight weeks only.
Prolonged or unsupervised use can irritate.

For the face, use:

Depigmenting cream (Tranexamic acid-based).
Cream containing Azelaic acid 20%.

Use it two times per week and your previous regimen on the remaining nights. Azelaic Acid is very effective for pigmentation, safer for prolonged use, and suitable for skin types where post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation risk is higher.

Do not worry, at 18, your skin has excellent regenerative capacity. With disciplined sunscreen use and a structured plan, gradual improvement is very achievable.

I hope you are satisfied with my answer.

Thank you.